From: "Hi-Float" <Hi-Float@email.msn.com>
To: <balloondeco@balloonhq.com>
Subject: Hi-Float Theory
Date: Thu, 18 May 2000 12:49:19 -0400

Dear Danny,

In response to recent questions about HI-FLOAT:

We always recommend letting HI-FLOATed balloons dry before delivery.  If the
balloon pops there is no mess.   The drying time varies depending on
humidity and temperature.  Usually two to three hours is adequate.

With or without HI-FLOAT, balloons are less likely to pop the longer they
have been inflated.  Two things happen to cause this.  First, the balloons
loose helium and are not under as much strain.  Second, the stretched rubber
gradually relaxes and gets longer.  This is called "creep".  Ever notice how
a balloon is larger after deflation?  This is creep.

A balloon with dry SUPER HI-FLOAT is less likely to pop than an untreated
balloon.  Someone once gave me a balloon at a trade show that had been
treated with SUPER HI-FLOAT and inflated a few weeks earlier.  The outer
balloon had developed a hole about a quarter inch in diameter but the
HI-FLOAT coating was intact and kept the balloon inflated!

A SUPER HI-FLOAT coating is not really hard or brittle.  You can usually
deflate a dried balloon and reinflate it again without the coating coming
off.  To make a "spider web" effect you usually have to stretch the balloon
several times.

Some people tell me that HI-FLOAT makes the static electricity effect worse
and some tell me it makes it better.  I don't know .  Use static guard
frequently and try grounding your helium tank (run a copper wire from your
tank to a cold water pipe).  Static guard only works briefly each time you
spray it, so spray it often during problem times.

Don Burchette
Hi-Float Co.,Inc.
Louisville,  Kentucky