|
|
| Search BHQ | ||||
Basic Resources
| ||||
BHQ News
| ||||
E-mail Lists
| ||||
Official Stuff
| ||||
 |
Making Balloons Last
Please excuse the less than perfect appearance of this chapter: we are in the middle of a major revamp of the Guide and we wanted to get the information on line and available ASAP. This chapter will soon be edited and spruced up by the BHQ staff. Thank you for your patience.
-- PREINFLATING PLASTIC BAGS PREVENTING FROSTED BALLOONS KEEPING CLEARS CLEAR BALLOON SHINE/SHIELD SON OF A GUN/ARMOR-ALL FOLIAGE SEALER BALLOON JUICE HAIR SPRAY OTHER HI FLOAT Hi-Float and Super Hi-Float SQUIRTING IT IN TO CLIP OR NOT TO CLIP, THAT IS THE QUESTION I'VE BEEN SLIMED! PRE-TREATING UN-INFLATED BALLOONS PRE-TREATING INFLATED BALLOONS THE NECESSITY OF HI-FLOAT SPEED / COST SALES TECHNIQUES HI-FLOAT IN DECOR HI-FLOAT ON THE OUTSIDE METALLIC BALLOONS HI-FLOAT AND GEO BLOSSOMS HI-FLOATING 260's HI-FLOAT AND AGATES TIPS FOR MAXIMIZING FLOAT TIME ARTISTIC APPLICATIONS OF HI FLOAT -- Note:
Some of the following comments include amounts of money in the imaginary unit called "C-shells." These units are used to avoid any hint of illegal price fixing in the balloon industry.PREINFLATING We preinflate with air to expand the balloon for many reasons. Pearlized balloons that are combined with imprints are invariably smaller and odder shaped, especially when using the same size balloons (both 11"). Preinflating with air gets them closer to the same size. They are also a bit softer to tie and seem a bit softer after inflation so that there's a bit of expansion room. We preinflate all 3' balloons when we receive our stock to assure no defects because we usually don't carry a large inventory in that size. Sometimes, when we're low on 16", an 11" can be expanded through air inflation to get pretty close to the 16" size. Most often, we preinflate to get extra helium into the balloons the night before do that they will be at 11" the next day when we need them. The trick in assembling the arrangements is to keep the balloons a little closer than usual to make up for the shrinkage that will occur. We pre-stretch everything now. If there is any defect, it is caught before hi-float and helium is wasted and relaxing the latex cuts down on breakage. Over/undersizing? Use your judgement. A balloon should never be inflated to the point where a few degrees warmer will pop it. That's overinflated to begin with. An 11 inch balloon inflated to 11inches at room temperature (70 - 75 F) should be able to withstand 90 - 95 F without popping, because it should expand to about 12.5 inches or more before it pops. Try measuring your balloons to see if your idea of an 11 inch fully inflated balloon is really 11 inches. PLASTIC BAGS
Making Inflated Balloons Last: Storage
- The only way to prolong the balloon clarity is to place inflated
items in a clear plastic bag. When I was vending outdoors, I would
place stuffed balloons into clear bags, twist closed tightly to fit snug
over the balloon and put a big bow on the plastic bag as well.
- Whenever you blow up a balloon, you immediately subject it to
oxidation, its just a fact of atmospheric physics. I do Balloon
Deliveries using both rounds and non-rounds. The best,
fastest, cheapest cure is a plastic bag, 55 gallon drum liners are my
favorite. Find one large enough to hold your entire delivery and
stuff them in, tie with a piece of curling
ribbon. Just before the delivery, take everything out of the bag, fluff
and fix where necessary and wow them with your product.
- If you are interested in buying very large plastic balloon bags,
you should check this source:
The Rainbowrapper CO.
8389 Mayfield Rd. Ste.
130 Chesterland, Ohio 44026
1-800-449-8806 or (216)729-4644
I just ordered them and I like them, they even sell them in three sizes at $25.00 each roll, plus shipping:Medium: 38" wide x 50" long (will hold seven or ten 11" balloons) (140 bags per roll)
Large: 38" wide x 70" long (will hold ten to fifteen 11" balloons) (100 bags per roll)
Extra Large: 38" wide x 90" long (will hold twenty to twenty five 11" balloons) (78 bags per roll)I spoke to Keith Redfern, who owns this company. They are a 15 year old balloon company from Cleveland who designed these bags specifically for the balloon industry. I've always had difficulty finding anything larger than the standard 55 gal trash bag for my balloons, and if these are as good as they claim they are, these bags will be a big help to those of us who do a lot of bouquet deliveries and/or decor with pre-inflated latex. The bags are high density poly, anti-static (!), and ventilated (hallelujah!). Give Keith a call, and he'll send you some samples!
- I've used the Rainbowrapper bags for everything from delivery
bouquets to transporting String of Pearl Arches and have found them
to be WONDERFUL.
- We get our large bags from Viking Paper Products. Our bags are
"see-through" and about 72"x48" and cost us about 15-20 cents each.
- We use 55 gallon drum liners (trash bags) that are clear, we get
them wholesale for $10 a box (60 per box). It's great to be able to
see all the colored balloons in the bag, and it keeps them from
oxidizing too!
- A clown friend uses a very large (trash can sized) mylar bag to
transport her balloons. It is decorated with balloons and confetti,
just perfect for a celebration! She said they're available at most
Hallmark stores. They're durable and attractive.
- When I stuff balloons, I treat the outside of the balloon and then put a clear floral bag over the balloon after it has been decorated. Then I gather the top of the bag and close it with some curling ribbon to decorate it. This serves two purposes: it is easier to carry and it keeps the balloon fresher much longer.
Making Inflated Balloons Last: Products
- Are there any balloons that do not cloud up?
No. All latex balloons are made from latex and the characteristics are the same... latex oxidizes, period! One other thing you can do, though, is apply a chemical to the balloon surface, to prolong clarity by weeks. - How can I avoid having that milky coating on my balloons during hot weather? I used STP brand Son-of-a-Gun and it was ok, however, it didn't last that long. I've tried a half and half combination of Hi-Float and water; however, that only streaked the balloons real bad. I've also heard that Armor All works too. Is there something else that I don't know about?
Balloon Shine and Balloon Shield
- I have a sample bottle of a product called Balloon Shine by Maxim, and it
works pretty well, but you must buff each balloon you spray it on.
- Balloon Shine and Balloon Shield (by Maxim, Inc.). Also if you can do your
balloons in the air conditioning along with applying the Shine or Shield, this
will help.
- I purchased Balloon Shine from my local balloon company. However, STP worked
as well as Balloon Shine.
- I used to own a car wash and I know my car chemicals very well. Balloon Shine
looks like, smells like, and acts like STP. Balloon Shine also makes my tires
look great! So you do the math.
- Balloon Shine is a product made specifically for balloons but, unfortunately, the results are similar to Armor All.
- We have used Balloon Shine and while it is good for short periods, our best results have come by using the original "Hi-Float" formula to seal the surface.
- STP is a water based automotive product for making rubber,
vinyl, plastic and finished leather shine. Most people use it for the
"Wet tire" look. The important thing is that STP is WATER based.
Some of these applications are petroleum based and will eat through
latex very fast.
- I do not know if Armor All is water based or not.
- STP brand "Son of a Gun" can be used on the outside of a latex
balloon (instead of Hi-Float) to prevent the chalky oxidation that
results from long exposure to air. I doubt that it has any of the
Helium-diffusion-rate-altering qualities of Hi-Float though. Knowing
how slippery "Son of a Gun" makes car seats, it may not have any
practical application for twisted sculptures.
-
Don't use Armor All until after the 'loon is inflated and the figure is
made. I've had hearts and blossoms stay shiny for more than 3
weeks in the mall after being treated.
- Bigger cities have car-washing chemical suppliers. They will have
a version of STP in a gallon jug. You will want to ask for a water-
based product. The company will have it for a fraction of the cost.
- I don't recommend using STP or those other auto products. They feel oily to the touch and they take time to apply. There is a product called Balloon Shine that does the same thing (retard oxidation) but again, the time factor is too much for me. "Son of a Gun". Spray it on a lint free rag and then wipe the outside of your balloon completely! It also keeps your clear balloons from "fogging" up! Great stuff! Do not spray directly onto the balloon. Also use on imprinted balloons, if you can; turn them inside out because when you go to shine them ... the imprinted ink will smear! One can also just purchse this from a store like Wal-Mart. Good luck!!! I heard you could use "Son of a Gun" which is a dashboard cleaner. But also heard do NOT use "Armor-All", I guess it eats the balloon slowly or something like that. Different brands do different things. Armor-all works OK, but, frankly, it's a royal pain if you don't need something on display more than a day. Also, if you use pearlized colors, the "fogging" isn't so apparent. You can use spray Armour All to prevent oxidation but do not spray it directly on the balloon. It goes a LONG way if you spray a cloth and rub it over the balloon. Cotton diapers work great for this. > Is there any way you can prevent the creation from going so dusty? I > find that after about 4 hours, the sculpture's color doesn't shine > through because of all the dust on the outside. Once I did a outdoor > gig, and I had examples hanging up behind me. The black balloons > looked like they were gray! Actually the problem is oxidation and not dust. STP Son Of a Gun or Balloon Shine sprayed on each balloon then wiped till dry (polished) works well but is time consuming. Oddly enough, these products attract dust (but it won't really be visible) and small dust particles can be sharp and slightly increase your poppage rate. But if you want your black balloons to stay black and your clear balloons to stay clear it is a must to polish them. Regarding Son of a Gun . . . . I picked up this technique from Saul at Conwin Carbonics . . . In an area where people won't be walking (they can slip), we cover the floor with plastic and just spray the heck out of our sculptures, etc., until they're dripping. We let the sculpture sit there or leave the plastic at the bottom until it stops dripping and VOILA!!!!! We don't do any rubbing . . . I don't know if you'd have to for centerpiece things, but for all the other stuff just let it drip dry. As long as you have thoroughly sprayed it down, it's beautiful. The stuff is so cheap at K-mart or Pic'n'Save that it's worth using more and saving on time and labor. We once did this technique on our 10' palm trees that had to be outside and DIRECTLY IN THE SUN for 3 days while the temperatures were in the 90's plus and VOILA! They were just gorgeous! When the job got struck, not all the little balloons (they were all goldenrod by the way) at the top were popped until a week later, and YES they were still beautiful. The only draw back to this technique is you have to spend a little bit of time (when the job is done) cleaning your pole and base with windex or something to cut the slippery effect.
We have used a combination of original Hi-float...letting it dry, then spraying Design Master Floral Spray (formerly Glitter Glue) over that. These projects had not been subjected to direct sunlight and a majority of the balloons were round, but this process was pretty successful for sealing both new and oxidized balloons. Out-of-doors, there has not been anything we have tried that lasted as long as natural latex.
BALLOON JUICE
Also, South Bay Balloons(formerly part of All American of
Santa Ana, CA) in the San Jose, CA area has something
called "Balloon Juice" that works really well. Their
number is (408)486-9820.
HAIR SPRAY
Hair spray on the outside of the balloon will make it last a long time but
don't touch it or it shrivels.
Hairspray actually helps keep the air in longer by sealing the balloon.
No, it doesn't make it stiff.
OTHER
Spray your creation with Silicone Lubricant.
Found in most Wal-Mart stores in the Auto dept. Keeps your balloons bright ten
times longer.
I always coat my balloons after inflation. I never tried to coat them
before inflation. I do know that it would be harder to tie, cause that
stuff is slippery. I sell peacock punch balls at festivals, and when they
get chalky, I spray them. Never used the stuff on 260's, but latex is
similar, and should react the same.
Toxic? Never thought about it. Better check, just to be sure.
We have tried every brand of rubber treatment made and have found "2001" to
be the best! We get it at our automotive store. We
buy the big bottle and pour it into a smaller spray bottle. Put it on when
you first inflate the balloons for best results.
Copied from a Fredericksburg VA area Newsletter:
"Hi I'm POP-O the Clown... Balloon sculpting has always been one of my favorite
crafts, but felt that they didn't last as long as they should, so I decided to
do something about it and discovered a way of preserving the balloons with a
clear non-toxic coating that seals the balloons and gives them that shiny just
blown up look for weeks or even months.
Since then, I have been able to supply people with colorful long lasting balloon
sculptures, store displays, and memorable party decorations of all sorts.
POP-O has written down the secret of this balloon-preserving
process for anyone who's interested, to get your copy send
$4.50 for the booklet to:
POP-O the Clown at PO Box 607, Locust Grove, VA
22508
(540) 972-0089
HI FLOAT
Hi-Float and Super Hi-Float
- Hi-Float: is a gummy, glue-like, resin that you
apply to latex balloons to allow them to retain
helium for longer periods of time. Once it dries, it
forms a plastic-like coating that adds many more hours to the
life of a balloon before it "drops".
- Super Hi-Float: is a liquid substance that is
designed to go inside helium-balloons to make them float longer.
It can be a little messy. Before you insert the gel into
the balloon make sure that you remove all of the air from
the balloon first (If you don't then the gel will be forced
back out of the balloon). Don't use very much Super Hi-Float
either because all you need is enough gel to give the balloon
a thin layer of protection. The gel takes
about 30 minutes to dry. Once dry you've got a balloon
that will stay inflated for months.
- "Hi-Float and Super HF are non-toxic, non-irritating,
non-corrosive, non-flammable, and biodegradable. They are very similar
to the adhesive found on the back of postage stamps."
HI-FLOAT has a free design book they will send out or one of your suppliers may have copies in house for their clients. There is a lot of info in this little blue book!!! Here is their phone and snail mail info: HI-FLOAT
13025 Middletown Industrial Blvd, Louisville, KY 40223
Phone: 1-800-57FLOAT or 502-244-6873
fax: 502 245 9711
- I often apply Super Hi-Float ahead of time for parties,
holidays, etc. Just place them in a plastic bag to limit the
amount of air they are exposed to... A zip-lock bag, with
the air pressed out of it, keeps the high float fresh for
weeks. I've experienced no problems with the balloons.
- Hi-float the balloons, "squish" them, and cover them with
plastic wrap to keep out the air. You then have to re-squish
(to evenly distribute the Hi-float on the balloon interior)
before inflating.
- Pre-treating and storing without inflating... I have
simply treated with Hi-float, grouped the balloons (6-12),
placed rubber bands around them, placed upright in an
airtight container and refrigerated. They can be done weeks
ahead of time this way.
- Just Hi-Float your balloons, and use a rubber band to tie
10 or so together, then store them with the neck up to
minimize the hi float in the neck. When you're ready to
inflate them, rub the balloon so the Hi-Float is
redistributed within. We use paper clips (remember them?) to
hang 3 or more groups of balloons together from some wire
shelving. Some people have done this, and then refrigerated
them for up to 30 days!!! Just remember to let the balloons
warm up to room temp before inflating!
- I have had no trouble putting balloons with Hi-Float into the refrigerator
on Monday for the following weekend. Just be sure to tightly bind the necks.
I have also found that if you fill the balloons with Hi-Float, secure them
with a "rubberband" and do not put them in the refrigerator for a day or two,
they really get very large when you inflate them. (This I learned years ago
by accident.)
I put hi-float in several days in advance. I even have some in the freezer that are a few months old. I put all the hi-floated balloons in tupperware or similar sealed plastic containers. It keeps them from drying out. You can get away using only half the recommended amount of Super Hi Float. We learned that you don't need to put "pre-gooped" Hi Float balloons in the refrigerator if it's only for a day or two. The secret is to simply put that rubber band tight around the necks...to keep the air out. The other answer to your question is you can hifloat ahead of time by squirting in the goop, then bunch the balloons together and secure with a rubber band at the top, put them in the fridge; the goop will not dry on you if the rubber band prevents air from getting to the goop. Before you inflate the balloon squeeze to hifloat around to get good distribution around the inside, then inflate. Bruce Walden taught this in one of his classes, so I high float and refrigerate all the time. If I need the balloons before they reach room temperature, I put them in the microwave. Hi-floating in advance can be a great convenience, and many decorators do it. The balloons are hi floated a day or two before the event. After inserting the hi float & squishing it around the inside of the bulb - being careful not to get any into the neck area - stack the balloons by putting your thumb into the the rounded area so that there's not much room for air, then place them all into a ziploc bag with the rounded balloon base at the bottom and all the necks upright. No need to seal or refrigerate unless you're really doing them far in advance. Just fold over and keep upright so that the hi float doesn't liquify and get into the neck area of the balloons. Regarding the preparation of latex balloons with a booster solution, we bundle ours in groups of 7-10, tie them with left-over curling ribbon scraps, stand them in zip lock bags and store them. If the job or delivery is more than three weeks in the future, we'll refrigerate, but shelves in the basement work well in our climate. On occasions that we have needed to hi-float in advance we have had problems blowing the balloons up with the split second duel sizer. We stored them with the necks up, and the necks seem to stick shut just enough that it causes a problem with the duel sizer. Having to resort to the other inflator slowed us considerably. Has anyone else encountered this problem? Insert the highfloat nozzle deep into the balloon's body, to pump it in, then wipe its nose off inside, by pinching it clean. When storing pre-hifloated latex for use at a later time, we bunch the hifloated latex together with a piece of left-over ribbon and place in a zip-lock bag. This air tight storage makes it possible to prep balloons ahead of the time. I have had no trouble putting balloons with Hi-Float into the refrigerator on Monday for the following weekend. Just be sure to tightly bind the necks. At IBAC, Christopher Horn gave a great suggestion about cutting off the neck of an old or broken balloon and then just using the rolled top of the balloon as a rubberband. It is so obvious, but something I never thought of before.....now all my Hi-Floated balloons are secured with these "rubberbands." Be sure to take them out of the refrigerator about 30 minutes before inflating them to let them get to room temp. I have also found that if you fill the balloons with Hi-Float, secure them with a "rubberband" and do not put them in the refrigerator for a day or two. They really get very large when you inflate them. (This I learned years ago by accident.)
- Treat the balloons on the inside with Hi-Float. Inflate and seal with clips.
- The next day, remove the clips and add helium as necessary.
- Note: It is important to keep Hi-Float out of the stem of the balloon so that helium may be added the next day to fully inflate the balloon.
This technique was developed so that customers could receive treated balloons without the risk of being "slimed" if a balloon popped. It may also be useful for preparation of balloons to be used in a spiral arch or other design with balloons spaced so closely that the Hi-Float cannot quickly dry. Because Hi-Float must DRY to form the helium barrier coating, the balloons must be inflated while the Hi-Float is wet inside. Check out the "dry method" on page 4 in the HI-FLOAT book: Step 1: At the end of the day treat the balloons for the next days deliveries or decorating jobs with the recommended amount of HI-FLOAT. Inflate the balloons with helium and seal with plastic clips or discs. Step 2: Allow the balloons to dry overnight. In the morning remove the clips and give the balloons an extra shot of helium to regain their full size. Reseal the balloons. This will result in a fully inflated balloon coated with HI-FLOAT that is completely dry. The added advantage is that if a balloon accidentally pops there is no mess. When using the "dry method," it is important to keep Hi-Float out of the stem of the balloon so that helium may be added the next day to fully inflate the balloon. THE NECESSITY OF HI-FLOAT What a wonderful product! At the back of our showroom where we do all the inflating of deliveries, there is a sign on the wall for all staff AND CUSTOMERS to see. "Hi-Float is MANDATORY for every delivery arrangement". Some customers will ask, "What is HI-Float?" Before you know it, they want to pay the extra, even though their balloons are for little Jodi's birthday party. This impresses the other mothers with the float time of that balloon Lisa brought home from little Jodi's birthday party. "How come Lisa's birthday balloons didn't float for 5 days?" Picture this; A typical hospital stay for a new baby is now 3-4 days. Most bouquets of balloons are ordered and delivered within the first 2 days. Visitors, the hospital staff, the proud father etc, that come on the 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5..... notice that one particular arrangement lasted throughout, while other balloons "died" and were taken away by the nurses. Make sure your business name and number is easy to read on that balloon delivery arrangement! Our competitors actually try to argue with us that it is not worth using. I don't argue of course.... let 'em suffer the consequences! I agree that high float is as necessary as ribbon, helium and balloons for our business. It costs @ 15 cents for an 11 inch balloon & @ 5 cents for helium for that balloon (depending, of course, on where and how much you pay, I am merely using my statistics). To spend your time and effort to make your creation (no matter how small or large) to last for just one day has ABSOLUTELY NO comparison value when you add @ 15 more cents for super high float or 11 cents for high float and it lasts for at least a week. I've actually had them last much longer. Truly, a customer ran in to me on Dec. 20, 97. I did ballons for her daughter's B-day Nov. 21, 97. She was so excited and raved to everyone around, that the balloons were still up and they should use me, if they ever needed balloons. I handed out several cards by request. I even treat my king 7's on the outside. They stay perfectly clear and last and last! That is one of the major hesitations on potential a customer's part, spending X amount of dollars for balloons to be gone in one day. They make comments like 'at least flowers last for a few days'. I assure them that properly treated balloons can also. I am new to this business (3 months), but it is very clear to me that you can't exchange word of mouth referral for any amount. That is what high float gives you, not to mention, the longer visibilty if it is in a high profile place. If something is "in someone's face" it is on their mind. We use super hi-float in every latex balloon that leaves our shop. Period. We stand on our reputation for long-lasting balloons and have had many return customers as a result. Our company philosophy and mission statement includes a sentence stating that we will "exceed our client's expectations", and we feel that including boosters in our latex work has a positive effect on our overall image. The longevity issue comes into play with us on the decorating level as well as the daily delivery level when we have three or four jobs on a given day. We can be sure that the decor will last regardless of the room conditions, even if the set up takes place at 6:00am for an evening event. At a cost of less than 1.5 cents per balloon, we feel that this insurance is well worth the cost, which is passed along to the client. We do not offer the choice of "to hi-float or not to hi-float" as many of our colleagues in this area do...super hi-float is standard in our shop. After all, we are the experts and the consumer simply desires a quality product. Using SUPER HI-FLOAT gives a balloon business an edge over the competition, because you are able to provide a longer lasting product, and therefore more value for your customers' money. Working at a local Paper Warehouse, I swear by Hi-Float and Super Hi-Float. My display and promotional balloons last up to a week, and I can attest that experimentation is the best way for balloon decorators and retailers alike to discover their potential with Super Hi-Float. Super Hi-Float provides the retailer with yet another assurance of customer satisfaction, due to the extended life of the balloons leaving the store. Many of my customers have returned to our store, simply for the fact that they were "amazed" by the float-time of my work. SPEED / COST After a short time you'll find that you can put Super Hi- Float into balloons and inflate them in a very short time. It doesn't cost too much either. In England it costs about 6 - 7 Pounds for a bottle full. If you have a real big job, you can always 'treat' the balloons far in advance with your other prep work, so the time on the actual job would be the same. Hi-floating in advance can be a great convenience, and many decorators do it. If time on the job isn't a concern, I find it simpler to hi-float on site, especially for smaller jobs. SALES TECHNIQUES
- Do you sell Hi Float or keep it as a 'trade secret'?
I use it as an add-on sale when selling balloons "to go." I always have asked customers if they would like HI-FLOAT, tell them the benefits, and the small additional price per balloon. I think it's a bargain at 3 C-shells per dozen balloons and customers love it. - I think all deliveries should be HI-FLOATed, since the longer the
balloons last, the longer they will be around to remind people of your
business. I like to deliver big bouquets of HI-FLOATed 16-inch
balloons to office buildings. That way the recipient is less likely to
take the balloons home from work (they're too big!) and more likely
to leave them on their desk. (I'm getting paid to advertise!) Let me
tell you, a 16-inch with HI-FLOAT lasts a mighty long time!!!
- When selling balloons with HI-FLOAT, let me recommend that you
add a tag that explains that the balloons were treated. Otherwise the
customer or recipient won't know/remember and will likely develop
an unrealistic impression of how long latex balloons last w/o
treatment. That can come back to bite you. Ask me to tell you about
the disgruntled customer I had once because of this very thing!
- If someone
comes into the shop for a few balloons, we sell them Hi Float as an
add-on sale. Some customers want it, and some don't see the need.
- We do not offer the choice of "to hi-float or not to hi-float" as many of our colleagues in this area do... super hi-float is standard in our shop. After all, we are the experts and the consumer simply desires a quality product.
METALLIC BALLOONS When inflating Qualatex 11" Jewel-tone and pearl-tone balloons with helium and templating to 11", we have found they tend to become a definite pear-shape. We combat this problem by preparing all of our balloons a day or two ahead of the job: What works for us is to insert Super Hi-Float, tie 7 or 8 together with some discarded pieces of curling ribbon, place in a zip lock baggie and store. This allows the balloons to be blown to a much larger size, and helps to eliminate the pear problem (for reasons why, see the effect of water on latex in the Balloon Science 101 chapter). Refrigeration has also been suggested to us as a means of extending the time between preparation and inflation. This simple method has been so successful for us that we do all of our delivery balloons ahead of time also. In fact, the employees in our shop CRINGE when someone stops in to order a bunch of balloons "cash & carry"! They simply do not look as full as the ones that have been prepared. Helium balloon shrinkage At times this has happened to us and one of the following situations is usually the reason. Pearlized balloons RARELY hold their size even with the proper amount of super hi float and helium. Heat and humidity are killers if the hi float didn't dry completely. Bagging balloons before they are completely dry will cause severe shrinkage. Putting too little hi float into the balloons will cause this problem. Underfilling will cause shrinkage too (we always try to overfill if we are doing them the night before). Check your helium -- was it mixed with air? Was the tank nearly empty? Who manufactured the balloons? What size and color was used? Were they left in a very cold room where the hi float did not dry quickly enough? Did you put too much hi float in the balloons? Don't know if you'll get the same experiences from others but I do know that we have had this happen, especially with Pearlized balloons, and it's a real bummer -- now we air inflate, deflate, hi float and inflate so that the balloons have been stretched a bit if we want to prep the job the night before. One nice advantage to hi floating ahead of time is that the balloons blow up a bit bigger - especially pearlized, and they seem to last even longer. It is true that pearlized and metallic colored balloons float about a third less time than regular colored balloons. You could just add a little less HI- FLOAT than normal, but they will float much longer if you use one of the following methods: METHOD 1: Inject the SUPER HI-FLOAT into the balloon the day before it is to be inflated, using the BLUE clip for an 11-inch balloon. Rub the balloon in the normal manner to spread the SUPER HI-FLOAT around when it is injected into the balloon. Treat several balloons this way and then gather them together by placing a rubber band around their necks to keep the SUPER HI-FLOAT from drying out. The next day briefly rub the balloon a second time and then inflate with helium. METHOD 2: (will give about the same increase in floating time as Method 1) Inflate the balloon with air to stretch it. Then deflate the balloon fully, treat it with SUPER HI-FLOAT in the normal manner, and reinflate with helium. This information is in the latest edition of The HI-FLOAT Book (blue cover, says "revised Nov. 1996" on the inside of the back cover). This is from the Hi-float Book by Don & Marjorie Burchette: Pearlized and metallic colors float about a third less time than regular balloons. If you need the maximum floating life possible, don't use pearlized or metallic colors. Also, agate balloons, heart-shaped balloons, and geos float much less time than regular balloons. To maximize pealize balloons with high float, inflate balloon with air (before highfloating), then highfloat. The balloons may seem bigger, but they'll take more air and last longer. Pre-inflating does help balloons float even longer because they have been stretched and can hold more helium. However, this method is really only necessary if you are inflating pearlized or metallic colored balloons (which do not blow up as large as regular colors) or unusually shaped balloons, such as Geo Doughnuts and Blossoms. I preinflate the balloon to its full size with air, let the air out, and then I treat as I normally would with SUPER HI-FLOAT and inflate with helium. You might want to try testing a couple balloons in your shop. You could blow up one as you usually do, and then another that you have prestretched and see what kind of a difference you get in the floating life. Of course, if you want to increase the floating life of your balloons an easier way would be to use the next larger size balloon - it would accomplish the same thing (allowing you to put in more helium). HI-FLOAT AND GEO BLOSSOMS The blossoms traditionally do not float as long as an 11" balloon. The "helium lift" to weight ratio of the balloon is not as high as other balloons. Using Super High Float will help, but don't use too much, and be sure to get it spread all the way around to assure that it will float straight. Bruce Walden recommended the following: inflate the balloon and clip it (instead of tying it) until the Super High Float dries. Then remove the clip and top off the balloon with helium that was lost during drying time. Using Hi-Float with Geo Blossoms: Don Burchette, the inventor of Hi-Float, just completed some tests, and I wanted to share the results with everyone. He found that he could extend the floating life of 16-inch blossums and doughnuts up to several days using the following method: First - Inflate the balloon with air to stretch it, then deflate it. Second - Inject Super Hi-Float using the WHITE clip on the pump dispenser. Rub the balloon to spread the Super Hi-Float around. Third - Inflate the balloon as large as possible with helium. The prestretching of the balloon with air lets you blow it up larger the second time. In an air-conditioned environment the balloons Don tested floated for several days using this method. As for (16-inch) heart-shaped and Geo balloons, the method for getting the maximum floating life isn't in the HI-FLOAT book yet - Don Burchette just discovered this method during testing he did this summer: (1) Inflate the balloon with air to stretch it, then deflate the balloon fully. (2) Inject SUPER HI-FLOAT using the WHITE clip on the pump dispenser. Rub the balloon to spread the SUPER HI-FLOAT around. (3) Inflate the balloon as large as possible with helium. This prestreching of the balloon lets you blow it up larger the second time (as it does with pearlized balloons). The balloons should float several days using this method. Another tip - these balloons have a very short neck, and Don found them much easier to tie when they are fully inflated if you use a tying aid such as "Knot-A-Balloon". That information may not be in the book, but it is on the newly released HI- FLOAT Video (has anyone seen it yet?) The video has 44 minutes of tips for using HI-FLOAT, and features Bruce Walden and Don and Marjorie Burchette. The video can be purchased from your HI-FLOAT distributor, and I think even those already familiar with HI-FLOAT can pick up a few new tricks from watching. Geo's do last longer with Hi-float, but you have to make sure to evenly cover the entire balloon. If you have too much Hi-float at the top of your balloon this causes extra weight. The weight if heavier than your balloon stem will cause the top of your balloon to be weighted down. I always use Super Hi-Float in my donuts and blossoms. I use the blue clip, but I don't use the full amount. I short it by just a pinch. Also, it is very important to inflate it to the maximum. I usually have either a 260 or 2- 5" balloons in the center. But they usually float for 2 - 4 days. I tell my clients their float time is a little less than others in my arrangements. This way they are not dissappointed. HI-FLOATING 260's I have Hifloated some 260's, and had them stay up looking good for over a week. The people at Lonestar balloons told me they had had them stay up for about a month. Hifloat does work well, but it is a mess to put it in the balloons. I found that completly letting all the air out then filling them works the best. They twist the same. Should you pop one while twisting you'll have a mess, but other than that it works well. It can be mess but worth the time. I use it for display balloons that I want to stay looking good for long periods of time. Yes I use Hi-float on air blown balloons (sometimes). If I am doing spiders for example, the 260Q legs don't always last the 3 weeks that I need them to (they seem to be made thinner). So I discovered that Hi-floating 260Q's gives them an extra "layer" so they last 3 weeks or more (and I don't have to go back and do repairs). Of course I charge a bit more for that extra step. Also, realise that I do this only for "fast", small sculptures like the spiders. I haven't used the basic Hi-Float, but have used Super Hi-Float to try and put a coating on the outside of completed models, as per the guide. But had problems... The Hi-Float book recommends that you use basic Hi-Float for this purpose, but as the vendors I know only sell the super stuff I thought I'd experiment to see how it worked. I made 6 identical teddy-bears using brown balloons, left one uncoated and coated the others in different Hi-Float / water mixes (1:1, 1:2, 1:3, 1:4 and 1:5). The bears were then pegged by their noses on the washing line outside to dry, and then brought inside and put in a safe place. The idea was that I would then check them each day, and judge the shine, inflation, etc., each half day to see which mix gave the best results. Well, the results were fairly cut and dry - after two days every bear except the untreated one had got at least one burst bubble, and some were looking extremely sorry. Consequently the Super Hi-Float has not been back out of the bottle. Someone also asked what Hi-Float is made of, and as far as I can remember it is a suspension of plastic - if you can get a copy of the Hi-Float book it tells you a bit more in there. HI-FLOAT AND AGATES Other reasons to use Hi-FLOAT outside the balloon is because certain types of balloon's don't allow the glue to dry fast enough (Swirl/Agate Colors in particular). Hi-Floating the inside of an Agate (the way you would any other latex) doesn't really increase the floating life of the agate. This is because agates are actually turned inside out when they are produced. In order for the HI Float to work on an Agate, you have to Hi Float the outside of the agate. If you have a Hi Float hand book it explains the method of hi floating on the outside. If you only need the agates for one day, you probably don't need to hi float them. We do hi float them (using the outside dipping method) when we add agates to delivery bouquets. Another way to hi-float Agates is to double stuff them with a diamond clear and hi-float that one. The agates prevent the high float from drying properly, so you've got a downed one sooner. To treat it, you dip the balloon into a glass (or whatever) of high float so that it coats the outside of the agate, and then inflate. A whole lot messier, but it works. Agates are a pain compared to normal balloons. I've had plenty "shred" over time so that the color drops off the clear outer balloon, and since they're double dipped, they're heavier. They may hold helium longer untreated, but their weight offsets it. From what we know here at Incredible Balloon, the 11" Agate balloons were heavier than most other 11" balloons Therefore the Hi- Float would not dry completely, and the added weight of the Hi-Float and heavy latex would limit float times. In February of 1995 the Canadian plant which produces Agate balloons switched to a lighter thickness of latex. If your bag of Qualatex balloons was produced after that date they should perform like all other 11" balloons. : - ) Look to the lower right of the UPC code on your bag of balloons, and there should be a 5 digit number. First two numbers indicate yr. - the next three indicate the day in the year. day #1 to day #365. Hope this helps. Agates and HI-FLOAT. Mark from Incredible Balloons was correct - the old agates were heavier and therefore the HI-FLOAT could not dry fast enough to hold in the helium. However, the new Agates can be treated with HI-FLOAT without any problems. If you have some of the older Agates the best way to get maximum floating life is to double stuff them with a clear 11" balloon. Treat the inside balloon in the normal manner. TIPS FOR MAXIMIZING FLOAT TIME Here are some recommendations: HI-FLOAT takes a few hours to dry inside a balloon, and the balloon will lose helium during those first couple of hours. Therefore, balloons you inflate at night will inevitably be smaller the next morning. We recommend inflating the balloons as fully as possible, until they are starting to become almost pear-shaped. As the balloon loses some helium in the first few hours it will lose some of the pear shape and become more rounded. Yvonne Mastny suggested prestretching with air - this is a great way to get your balloons to hold even more helium, and therefore be the size you want them to be after a few hours. You also want to make sure you add the full recommended amount of HI-FLOAT. The blue pump restriction clip is for 11-inch balloons. Adding less HI-FLOAT will allow the balloon to lose helium (and shrink in size) more quickly. I work at a party store part-time, and I have seen employees use either too much Hi-Float, or not enough helium. Hi-Float is like Brylcream (a little dab'll do ya). For 11" balloons, all you need is what amounts to about 2 eyedrops of Super Hi-float. Also, you must coat the entire inside of the balloon, even getting into the neck. Use more than that, and if you don't spread the solution around to fully coat the inside, and you will get a "drunken" balloon: that is, it will appear lopsided, and won't last for very long at all. Also, be careful not to "underfill" your balloons, especially pearlized balloons and GEOS. Remember, when you add Hi-Float, you're adding weight to the balloon, and you'll need just a bit more helium to compensate. There are several factors that might have affected the poor results of the float time for the balloon you purchased. #1 The quality of the balloon (if the party store was using a poor quality balloons they are not going to last as long as a Qualatex Balloon. I own a party store and have checked out the balloons that a lot of the party stores sell in the area and most of them sell very cheap balloons) #2 The complete coverage of the balloon is very important. #3 I have found that the weather also can affect the float time of your balloons....I hate summer time! Some reasons balloons flounder even though they were hi floated: Were the balloons 11"? Did you let them dry before bagging them? Was it very hot and humid in the inflation area? Did you underinflate them? Did you put too much hi float in them - I find that the restrictor for 11" sometimes creates a "hovering" balloon, especially with pearlized, so I just don't use the restrictors at all. Check your tying -- perhaps you are tying too loosely and perhaps you're pulling too tightly and burning the balloon neck. And did you give thanks and praise to the Balloon Goddess? Sometimes weird things just happen, but not usually to the entire job. Much better luck next time -- don't give up on hi float because it gives us such a larger window of preparation time. I use super hi-float daily and have found that pre-stretching with air first and then over-inflating or at least inflating to full size makes all the difference. Of course the hi-float has to dry properly but overall the results are great. I read somewhere, that Hi Floated balloons perform best when they are allowed to dry in a cool dry environment. So if the weather is extra humid, the hi float isn't going to dry properly, thus reducing performance. Humidity is definitely one of the biggest factors in how long a balloon will float. Even if you use Super Hi-Float, 4-5 days is about all you can expect from an 11-inch balloon in humid conditions. We recommend using larger balloons in the summer time (14-inch) to increase floating times. Anyone who is interested can call the Hi-Float Company toll-free at 1-800-57FLOAT for a tip sheet that contains suggestions for getting the maximum floating life from your latex balloons. Hi-Float will keep balloons flying for 3-5 days and Super Hi-Float will keep them flying for 5-7 days. So doing your balloons the night before is positively no problem. We do find, however, that the balloons do come down about 8-10 percent (probably due to the drying time needed for the Hi-Float inside the balloon), so be sure to fill them full. Another trick we have learned is to pre-inflate your balloons with air, deflate them, and then put your Super Hi-Float in them and re-inflate them with the helium. The pre-inflation process stretches the balloons so they will inflate larger and float longer. Pre-inflating does help balloons float even longer because they have been stretched and can hold more helium. However, this method is really only necessary if you are inflating pearlized or metallic colored balloons (which do not blow up as large as regular colors) or unusually shaped balloons, such as Geo Doughnuts and Blossoms. I preinflate the balloon to its full size with air, let the air out, and then I treat as I normally would with SUPER HI-FLOAT and inflate with helium. You might want to try testing a couple balloons in your shop. You could blow up one as you usually do, and then another that you have prestretched and see what kind of a difference you get in the floating life. Of course, if you want to increase the floating life of your balloons an easier way would be to use the next larger size balloon - it would accomplish the same thing (allowing you to put in more helium). HF 11" balloons sized to only 9" would have definitely less float time than 16" downsized to 14". 16 inch or 3 foot round balloons can have up to 2 weeks of float time. I have some 11" balloons that I just took down today and they have been up for 2 weeks. They were still floating but there was some shrinkage so I decided to replace them. I have some leftover printed balloons floating around my apartment. They were treated and inflated in the morning 6 days ago. Out of 20, I still have 5 on the ceiling. SHF If used in 260's, it makes them last for months. 2 weeks ago today, we inflated 14" latex, augmented with Super Hi-Float. As of this morning at 8:45 am, the 14" Super Hi-Float coated latex is STILL floating. Granted, it's about the size of an 11" balloon, has virtually no lift and has been in an air conditioned area, but the fact remains that it is still floating. ARTISTIC APPLICATIONS OF HI FLOAT The best reason to use High Float though is to create internal effects with confetti/glitter. My favorite trick I read years ago in Image magazine was a to do spider web INSIDE a clear latex 16" balloon-complete with spider. Everyone wondered how it was done at the time.
You inflate the prepared balloon-sans plastic spider-with air and allow it to dry. Then deflate the balloon and pull/stretch it 1-3 times. Reinflate SLOWLY with helium and add the spider afterwards - if you do it before re-inflation it'll throttle around and likely break the balloon as well as screw up the "web". I prepare 3 balloons for every "one" good one that I use since it's fairly tricky to get the web to look right.
Add food color to Hi-float to make swirled colors in a white balloon. Be sure not to squish the Hi-float around too much or you will have a pastel, solid color interior. I'm thinking strawberry swirl ice cream... or maybe confetti inside to make it look like chocolate chips... how about some sprinkles made from bits of chopped up curling ribbon? To Easter Eggize balloons, put a bit of hi-float (not much for a 5"er) in a white balloon and then put in just a bit of food coloring (a drop makes a nice pastel shade for an 11"). Do the usual spreading technique for the hi-float and then inflate. I do Balloon-in-Balloons Hi floated all the time. Here's what I do. I high float the outside balloon, blow it up about 2/3 to 3/4 the way put a jumbo quicky clip on it and let it dry for about 2-3 hrs till it is no longer sticky inside, but still flexible. Then I remove the clip and inflate the inside balloon and tie it. I've never tried several. If it is at all sticky inside you may have a problem, and if you wait too long to add the inside balloon, the hi float dries, and will crack inside, and make the balloon look cloudy and UGLY. The drying time also depends on the temperature, and the weather conditions, so your balloons may dry either faster or slower than they do here. I wrote about Hi-Floating(super) Gumballs (in England we call them BubbleGums) for a delivery. It was said that it couldn't be done. So I did the delivery without them. (She was still really pleased anyway). The problem really bugged me. Then an idea hit me so I tried with 11". I coat the balloon with the right amount on the inside and rubbed it around. Then I took a Diamond clear over a pencil and gently stuffed it inside, took out the pencil and gently moved the balloon and so it coated the other balloon and got all the air bubbles out and then inflated as normal. The Super Hi-float is sandwiched between the two balloons leaving the inside sticky free. The method that I think works well for an 11-inch balloon inside a 16-inch is to treat the 16-inch clear balloon, using a little bit less Hi-Float than normal. Rub it around they way you normally would, and then insert your 11-inch balloon. Blow up the 16-inch about halfway and then inflate the 11-inch. If you hold them straight up while you are inflating them the 11-inch will not stick to the inside of the 16-inch. If it does you can normally get it loose again by tapping on the side. I also always preinflate if I am doing any type of special effect balloon - a confetti balloon, spider web balloon, Easter egg balloon, etc. - because I don't want to spend my time and materials and then discover the balloon has a defect.
MB 12/13/95
MB 12/22/95
SKB 01/13/97
SKB 12/23/97
MB 7/20/99